We Heart Handmade Boots is reader-supported. When you buy through links on this page, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
Buying your first pair of cowboy boots can be a little nerve-racking, and the biggest worry is almost always the fit. I remember wondering the same thing when I bought my first pair: how are these supposed to feel? After more than five decades in boots, from work boots to Marine Corps combat boots to cowboy boots, here’s the simple way I think about it.
Getting the fit right comes down to three things: the instep, the width and the heel slip. Once you know what to feel for, it only takes a few seconds to tell if a boot fits.
1. The Instep: Snug, Not Tight
The instep is the top of your foot, and it’s the most important part of the fit. Cowboy boots don’t have laces, so the instep is what holds your foot in place.
When you pull a boot on, you should feel a little resistance as your foot slides past the curve of the boot, and then that satisfying “pop” when your heel drops into place. Once it’s on, the boot should feel snug across the top of your foot. Not tight, not loose, just snug. That’s exactly what I want in a cowboy boot. The leather will relax a bit and mold to your foot as you wear it.
Pro tip: use the pull straps. That’s what they’re there for, and a good handmade boot’s pull straps won’t let you down.
2. The Width: A Little Room Is Fine
The width is measured across the ball of your foot, the widest part and where your foot bends when you walk. You don’t want it squeezing you, but a little room is perfectly fine here.
“D” is the standard men’s width, and “B” is the standard women’s width. If your feet are on the wide side, look for “E” or “EE” (wide), and a lot of brands make “EEE” too.
3. Heel Slip: A Little Is a Good Thing
This one surprises a lot of first-timers. A new pair of cowboy boots should let your heel lift a little, about a quarter to half an inch, when you walk. That’s because a new sole is stiff. As the boot breaks in and the sole gets more flexible, the slip goes away.
Here’s the connection most folks miss: if the instep is loose, you’ll get too much heel slip. That’s another reason the instep needs to be snug.
What I’ve Learned About Sizing
Boot sizes aren’t the same from brand to brand, kind of like jeans. So don’t just trust the number stamped inside the boot; trust how it feels on your foot.
For example, I’ve found that going up about a half size works best for me in Rios of Mercedes boots. They start out snug across the instep and then really conform to my foot after some wear. Every brand is a little different, so it pays to read the brand’s fit notes. I wrote more about that in my Rios of Mercedes review.
My Tips for Getting the Right Fit
- Try boots on later in the day. Your feet swell a little after you’ve been up and about, so an afternoon fitting gives you a truer size.
- Wear the socks you’ll actually wear. Thick hunting socks will throw off the fit. A regular pair of boot socks is best.
- Go with what you know. If you already own boots that fit well, start with that size. It’s usually printed inside the shaft.
- If you’re between sizes, go up a half size. That’s what has worked for me.
- Get measured if you can, especially if you’re ordering online.
- Walk around. Take a few laps, go up and down a step, and pay attention to the instep and heel.
How to Measure Your Foot at Home
Put your heel against a wall and stand on a piece of paper. Mark the tip of your longest toe, then measure from the wall to the mark. Do both feet, since most people have one a little bigger than the other, and go by the bigger one. Compare that to the brand’s size chart. A lot of shoe stores will also measure you for free with a Brannock device.
Women Wearing Men’s Cowboy Boots
Plenty of ladies like the look of men’s boots, and that’s no problem. A good rule of thumb is to subtract about 1.5 from your women’s size to get your men’s size. So a women’s 7 is roughly a men’s 5.5. Check the brand’s chart to be sure, since it can vary.
What About Buying Boots Online?
When I’m ready for another pair, Pinto Ranch is usually where I look first, and a lot of the boots I like are exclusive makeups you won’t find in a local store. As long as you know your size in that brand and understand the three fit points above, ordering online works great, and a good retailer will make exchanges easy if they’re not right.
The Bottom Line
Remember the big three: a snug instep, a little room in the width and a little heel slip that goes away as the boots break in. Get those right and your boots will feel like they were made for you. If you’re still deciding what to buy, check out my favorite cowboy boot brands or my tips on finding good boots for less.
Got a fit question? Leave it in the comments and I’ll help if I can.
